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Honesty is the best policy. That’s probably the motto, that is at the center of all the designer duo Viktor&Rolf’s efforts in creating their newest Haute Couture collection. And their honesty is quite raw!

Viktor&Rolf’s Haute Couture Spring 2019 brings bold messages!

Martina Šmalclová
28.Jan 2019
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2 minutes

Wearing the heart on its sleeve

‘Leave me alone’, ‘Go to hell’, ‘I’m not shy, I just don’t like you’, ‘No photos, please’, ‘Believe my I’m a liar, or ‘I want a better world’. These are just a short summary of all the outcries that the Netherlands brand Viktor&Rolf exhibited at the luxury Paris Fashion Week. If someone made you angry, or you just want to vent your negative emotions, you now have the ideal opportunity.

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Martina Šmalclová
fashion editor
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Ornella Koktová
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Názor PROTI PROUDU: Martina Šmalclová

In the steps of Giambattista Valli?

We are used to oversize tulle robes, especially from the luxury Italian brand Giambattista Valli, which is very accomplished in that direction, and it won’t be so easy for any competition! In the case of Viktor&Rolf we’re a bit on the uncomfortable side. If we omit the inscriptions, which really elicit the impression ‘I’m angry with everything and everyone, including myself’ we’re only left a few outfits, which balance on the border between luxury art, and punishment-worthy kitsch.

Stolen ideas?

Frilled dress sleeves are strongly reminiscent of the brand Balmain, and so the whole concept of the Haute Couture Spring 2019 seems to us to be a rip off of others’ ideas. Did the luxury brand run out of inspiration?

Luxusní byt s výhledem na Pražský hrad, Malá
Luxusní byt s výhledem na Pražský hrad, Malá, Praha 1

Take a bite...

What we have to commend is the fantastic range of colours, which the designers Viktor&Rolf used in creating Haute Couture. The chosen combination of shades on individual dresses complement each other perfectly.

What judgement will the designers hear from us? When we consider the Haute Couture Spring 2019, we get the impression that we’re looking at 18 gigantic whip cream cakes. But when we think about it, that isn’t such a bad result!

Martina Šmalclová

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Ornella Koktová

Kilometres of tulle, a stirring outcry on social media, a notable dose of good banter, but also one big message.

Yes, that is the way to define the most discussed Haute Couture show of Paris by Viktor & Rolf. Madness? For sure.. Art? One could debate on that for hours.

I was most taken by the cute bow dress with three very snappy appliques. ‘Go fuck yourself’. Every one of us has at least a few days in the month, when it’d be fitting to shout this all round. Why not bring this to a silently preparing Prague ball at the Opera. At least you could get down to sensible conversations with interesting people. They aren’t afraid of this kind of exchange.

I rate the rest as a massive stroke of luck, which is for me clearly dominated by the dress ‘Amsterdam’.

Ornella Koktová
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