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There has been a flood of debuts by the creative directors of luxury brands recently. Kim Jones is now following in the footsteps of Virgil Abloh and presenting his first collection.

Kim Jones’ premier: the SS 2019 reflects Christian Dior’s love of nature

Martina Šmalclová
21.Jul 2018
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2 minutes

Musical chairs is what Kim Jones played when he was replaced by Virgil Abloh in the position of director of the men’s section at Louis Vuitton. Kim left a lucrative position after a long seven years and moved to another deluxe fashion house – Dior. And how did the talented designer cope with creation of the SS 2019 collection. He launched an avalanche of white and paid homage to the fashion icon, the Christian Dior brand.

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Martina Šmalclová
fashion editor
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Ornella Koktová
Móda proti proudu

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Martina Šmalclová

The iconic designer and his unique work as inspiration

In his autobiography Christian Dior explained that there are two faces of Dior – the man and the myth. This is why Kim decided to interpret the codes of this iconic designer and create a collection that would represent a dialogue between these two elements. He drew inspiration from Christian Dior’s private life and his creative work. The SS 2019 collection is therefore in honour of not only Dior, but also his imagination.

Kim Jones combines traditional and modern elements

The SS 2019 collection is distinguished by the choice of luxurious materials and distinctive elements. The collection includes jacquard embroidery, tulle and soft leather. In places, Kim Jones inclines towards women’s Haute Couture, which results in rounded shoulders, relaxed shapes and wider designs. The British designer combines tradition with modern elements and creates sporting style models symbolising modern masculinity.

Prodej exkluzivní vily, Praha 4 - Kunratice
Prodej exkluzivní vily, Praha 4 - Kunratice, Praha 4

In the spirit of romance and subtle tones

The deluxe collection is dominated by white, along with other earthy tones. Yellow and dark shades appear only occasionally. Floral motifs, which reflect Christian Dior’s love of nature, become a distinctive element. But the romantic elements and innocent white are not the only specific elements of this collection. The deluxe Saddle bag, worn around the waist or carried in the hand, is modelled by men for the first time.

SS 2019 is ruled by optimism: Bees or canary yellow

Bees, canary yellow, jumpsuits or a transparent play of material – these aspects are also present in the SS 2019. Are you wondering whether to wear trousers or shorts? What about trying an innovative item that looks like both? We are curious what creative Kim Jones will come up with next time.

Martina Šmalclová

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Ornella Koktová

This is not great work!

I have always been a little disinterested and bored by men’s Dior. Even the children’s Dior collection always had a little more flair....And what was Kim Jones’ famous premier like? In my opinion it looked like something that Czech designer Tatianan Kovaříková, who I think is fairly unimpressive, would create in his position.

A range of classic trousers, transparent trousers and shorts (WHAT?!), or what looks like a new type of funeral jacket with one button at first glance: I would certainly not wish to see anything like this on a man. And when I finally saw something a little more “interesting” and stylish in the show, it was more suited to teenagers.

White trousers, a grey rucksack, beige shoes and finally an interesting anorak, embellished with a French wallpaper pattern: probably fine for a tour of the Versailles, but I don’t think I would like to attend a serious meeting and meet a man in something like this! And I don’t think I would be able to take him very seriously if I did. So, all-in-all, I don’t consider this great piece of work.

Ornella Koktová
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