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We introduce collections where the traditional terms such as Parisian chic and elegance are gone.

Deathly Make-up or Straitjackets: What Were the Failures at Paris Fashion Week?

Martina Šmalclová
18.Oct 2018
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2 minutes
Special section
Thom Browne SS19

Who has gotten in this unpopular ladder?

World fashion weeks have closed the Parisian fashion ladder and although Paris is a city of noble elegance and charm, some collections that have very little to do with fashion found their ways into this destination. Thom Browne or Maison Margiela are in our ladder of the worst for the second time, but what designers have their premiere here?

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Martina Šmalclová
fashion editor
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Ornella Koktová
model
Móda proti proudu

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Martina Šmalclová

Thom Browne: Models as a by-product

The leader of our selection is American designer Thom Browne with his crazy masks and props that not only amused but also scared. Ice-creams on the head, straitjackets or scary masks of Hannibal Lecter. A perfect and glamorous show, making the models a bit of a by-product.

Even Maison Margiela succumbed to the "trend"

Like many other brands, Maison Margiela has decided to change the look of the men's wardrobe. In addition to strange layering and monstrous jackets, we could see men dressed in golden women's dresses, corsets, or strange PVC overalls. We're just thinking how can creative director John Galliano shock us so often.  

Luxusní vila na prodej, Dolní Měcholupy - 616m
Luxusní vila na prodej, Dolní Měcholupy - 616m, Praha 10

Fashion show or lesson on tailoring?

Whether it was a safe bet or whether he wanted to be bizarre and original, we do not know, but looking at Junya Watanabe SS19 collection, we have the impression that we were on the show of illicit wigs and tailoring lessons. We are not impressed by the models from denim and tulle, and it all seems confused and slightly amateur. Not only that has put Japanese designer in our unpopular ladder.  

Rick Owens: Deathly make-up and metal!  

Models full of cuts, which are supposed to seem sophisticated, together with scarves and hoods, sunglasses, and metal structures attached to the head. What did Rick Owens want to say by this? We do not know. Simply, there are things between heaven and earth, and the SS19 collection is probably one of them.

Courrèges: Sophistication alternates nudity

The luxurious French designer Courrèges has left the Parisian style of other designers and bet on nakedness. Although we believe that even the courageous collection of SS19 will find its supporters, we advise not to get inspired. Otherwise, you can be completely misunderstood.

Martina Šmalclová

Názor PROTI PROUDU: Ornella Koktová

What's the worst the Paris fashion week brought us? It was a lot, as you can see!

The first one to be denounced is Rick Owens. His models and the girls themselves seemed to whisper the word DEATH throughout the show. I have not seen such depressing collection for a long time. His sweatshirts reminded of the royal clowns of the Middle Ages a brown torn dress that copied the brown robes of the monks – you really do not want to pay an average of 30,000 CZK for this.

Next, we have a gardening colony by Thomas Brown. It looked as if he cut and then sewed together a lot of gauntlet gloves of different kinds. After that, he borrowed a couple of old aprons from dustbins and washed it all at 60 degrees... *drumroll* and we have a collection of SS19. If you go to the masquerade dressed as a fool, this will be the right thing for you!

And now we have the Courrèges collection that acts as a feminist protest for nipple revelation. I don’t mind the models with cross-covering that much, they are quite provocative jokes. However, the leather hat on the head, reminiscent of a boxing bag, completely destroyed the impression of feminist power!

Japanese designer Junya Watanabe, on the contrary, seemed to have forgotten what his native land was. His denim creations looked like German costumes in a new design.  

And my selection of failure ends with Maison Margiela SS19 collection. Woman fashion on boys? Homeless-like feather jackets with PVC hats and mesh against bees?!!! No, everything here is wrong, it's not funny. Only one giant ERASER would be useful here!

Ornella Koktová
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